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Cameron Douglas MS Wine Review: Organic & Biodynamic Wines
The term 'organic' in terms of soil and grape health in relation to wine production is one that engages many conversations about what it actually means for the consumer. There are two main points when it comes to organic wine. There is a big difference between producers who practice organic farming and those that are certified bio-gro; and there are many wonderful nuances in fine wine examples to be discovered when farmed this way.
When delving into the realm of organic wines, we're stepping into a domain where the very essence of soil health and grape vitality takes centre stage and the voice of site and careful handling of fruit can reveal new complexities you may not yet have discovered.
Complex, enticing and familiar with a bouquet of wild orchard fruits, citrus pith and a complex leesy barrel spice combination. Wood smoke and vanilla, some burnt butter and baked cashew nut qualities add complexity and depth. Excellent weight and texture on the palate, flavours of citrus zest and fresh white peaches, apple and barrel spices layer in for complexity and depth. A delicious wine with texture, length and excellent mouthfeel. It’s floral and charming, weighty and varietal. Best drinking from 2025 through 2033+. Points: 95 RRP: $86.00 Distributor: Negociants New Zealand Phone: (0800) 634624
Whitehaven 'Greg' Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020, Southern Valleys, Marlborough
A serious wine with a bouquet of complexity and mystery, variety, spice and depth. Aromas of raspberry and plums, clay and wood smoke, barrel spices of vanilla and a touch of nutmeg. Still very youthful on the palate with fruit and barrel flavours that reflect the bouquet. The complexity continues to unfurl through textures from firm chalky tannins and ripe acidity, and as the wine opens out a layers of red flowers and stony clay minerality begins to intensify. A lovely example with best drinking from mid to late 2024 through 2034+. Points: 94 RRP: $60.00 Distributor: Whitehaven Wines Phone: (03) 572 7588
Alpha Domus 'The Wingwalker' Viognier 2023, Bridge Pa Triangle, Hawke's Bay
Varietal, floral and delicate when first poured, then as the wine opens out in glass, scents of elderflower, lees, peach and white apricot begin to emerge. Satin smooth textures touch the palate first, then flavours of white fleshed fruits, fine lees and white apricot return. Medium acid line, plenty of weight with floral highlights. A lovely example to savour. Balanced and well-made with a decent complexity and length. Best drinking from 2024 through 2029. Points: 93 RRP: $32.90 Distributor: CoLab Wine Merchants Phone: (06) 879 6752
A classic red burgundy, hued appearance, very bright with a light unfiltered hue. Varietal and very attractive with a core bouquet of strawberries and tart cherries, there’s preserved roses and a leesy complex minerality. Dry on the palate with core fruit flavours the same as the bouquet suggests. There’s plenty of mouthfeel too, from polished tannins and medium+ acid line. Dried herbs and an earthy savoury complexity. Totally delicious, a wine that Lance Redgwell does well. Lengthy, real, complex, a true freedom wine. Best drinking from day of purchase through 2029+. Points: 93 RRP: $40.00 Distributor: Auckland: Manifesto Wine Company Phone: (021) 207 2101 Distributor: Rest of NZ: Cambridge Road Phone: (06) 306 8959
Alpha Domus 'The Skybolt' Chardonnay 2023, Bridge Pa Triangle, Hawke's Bay Lifted, crisp and refreshing bouquet with scents of peach and pineapple, red apple and a light barrel spice quality. A satin-smooth texture touches the palate with a fresh nut and baking spice quality, then fruit flavours that mirror the bouquet. Acidity, oak and alcohol are all in balance and frame the palate structure seamlessly. Youthful and refreshing acid line, fine tannins and decent length. Well-made, with best drinking from day of purchase through 2028. Points: 92 RRP: $29.90 Distributor: CoLab Wine Merchants Phone: (06) 879 6752
An enticing bouquet of red fruits and savoury dried herb spices, earthy qualities and a mix of wood scents including smoke and baking spice. Youthful, taut, firm and dry as the wine touches the palate. Flavours of old strawberry and cherry fruits emerge as the wine opens out in glass. An abundance of finer fruit and wood tannins, medium+ acid line and overall textured mouthfeel, contrasted by fruit flavours and layers of mineral earth through to the finish. Well-made with cellar time still ahead. Best drinking from late 2024 through 2030+. Points: 92 RRP: $29.00 Distributor: SANZ Global Phone: (021) 683 377
Bright, varietal, youthful and fresh fruited bouquet and palate. Flavours of citrus and white fleshed orchard fruits, some pyrazines with green herbs and white pepper add breadth and complexity. Plenty of acidity and freshness. Medium weighted and lovely - a wine that is ready to drink and enjoy from day of purchase through end of summer 2026. Points: 90 RRP: $28.50 Distributor: Bare Wines NZ Ltd Phone: (021) 090 66425
